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Post by Miniböttcher on Oct 31, 2009 18:33:17 GMT
well its in just a few more to do but over all its in, and very happy, fitted perfect no cutting or trimming it just fitted,
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Post by MiniGT5 on Nov 1, 2009 10:54:19 GMT
My used to trip the house electrics out in modern houses (mu mums old house) but I got round it by running an extension lead from the cooker socket as that is higher ampage. Either that or move to an older house with thicker wires N
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Post by Miniböttcher on Nov 13, 2009 19:33:02 GMT
progress so far,
1. stripped the rear raduis arms down removed all the bearings and bushes, scrubbed in the degrease tank then jet washed off, now read for paint
2 . top arms all painted and new bearing fitted,
3. top arm fitted the front subframe with rebuild kit, new genuine dunlop cones fitted, ripspeed hi-lows fitted, new nuckles, all new bolt through out, new bump stops, done the adjustable lower arm and adjustable tie rods the other week so now the front subframe is all ready
4. done a mini spares order of rear brake parts.
5. more welding to do tomorrow and paniting the radius arms
thing i have bought over the last few weeks for the mk1
recon cooper s hardy spicers cooper s drive shafts cooper chrome handbrake stainless steel hand brake quadrand bolts all the little bits for the rear brakes, cables, dust covers, adjuster screws etc etc recon 80mm smith 7000rpm rev conuter and pod fly off handbrake kit.
cant be much else to get now basically got everything i need the bolt back on ONCE ITS PAINTED!!!!!!
talking of paint, still on the look out for a very good paint shop who can do me a very good, well prepped, long lasting paint job.not looking for some £600 blow over, i only want to do it once. going to pop round to leeds motors who are a BMW and Toyota insurance approved bodyshop, they are a stones throw from my work, plus julies son works there. and there paint spraying is very good, but i bet the price is a fair bit too i have photos but its getting round to uploading them
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Post by delly on Nov 13, 2009 22:38:58 GMT
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Post by Miniböttcher on Nov 13, 2009 23:45:32 GMT
the subframe has been blasted and powder coated. mini spares geometry kit, ( adjustable lower arms with offset bushes, adjustable tie rods, camber/tracking rear subframe brackets) new genuine lower arm pins, and new bump stops top arms have been taken back to bare metal, zinc galvanised spray and 3 coats of black, new rebuild kit,new knuckles, ripspeed hi-lows, genuine dunlop cones, everything has been coated in copper eased to stop it rusting togeather. now ready to be fitted here are a quick few
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Post by MiniGT5 on Nov 15, 2009 11:24:09 GMT
I'm likeing the way you have positioned the rubber doughnuts so the word dunlop is perfectly positioned in the apature. Nice one! N
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Post by Miniböttcher on Nov 15, 2009 16:56:15 GMT
its all the little things that count. turn the shell round today so i can work on the other side easier, scuttle cut off and repaired part of the flitch panel, also got my alley hinges out and bolted them to ones of my doors so i can get it lines up. striped out the rear hubs and chucked the in the degrease tank. one thing i bought last wee which is worth buying www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_532907_langId_-1_categoryId_165629its very good, tells you how many volts and amps the battery has also how much % its charged, 4 different charging speeds can recharge dead batterys,with a specail stages it charges, and it works i had a battery which has been dead for about 3-4 years sitting on a concreate floor, ( not good idea), connected it up,and it was only holding 3.5 volts, plugs it in 24 hours later its 100% charged also if you have a car you dont use all the time you just connect it up and leave it and it will trickle charge the battery and keep it at 100% charged, very good idea worth the buy if everytime you get your car out and it has a flat battery.
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Post by Miniböttcher on Nov 18, 2009 20:56:42 GMT
hello all.
cleaned and sprayed you rear hub so tomorrow i can rebiuld the,
i have cleaned all the grease off and out of the rear raduis arms, got a wire brush on the angle grinder and removed all the surface rust and sprayed 1 in zinc galvanished spry to stop the rust, i do the same to the other one tomorrow.
also cut off the drivers side scuttle and repairing the hole underneath
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Post by katentel on Nov 18, 2009 21:03:17 GMT
its certainly looking good
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Post by monkeyjim on Jan 3, 2010 18:18:00 GMT
No posts for a while . Here is an incentive ;D
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Post by Miniböttcher on Jan 3, 2010 18:30:49 GMT
thanks i have been working on it but not posted much, i have that picture of that car ( see post above) but of the rear end!!!
i know everytime i see a car like it i just want mine on the road.
i have nick swifts fiesta yellow mini from goodwood as the wallpaper on the computer.
well i have welding in a driverside floor well, not the whole floor pan, drivers scrutle. patch under the rear jacking point cut out the drivers door step and part of the rear panel, remove the inner and outer sill cut in the inner sill and cleaned up the panel to fit, which maybe welded in tomorrow got new cooper s steering arms from mini spares.
i will post picture soon
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Post by Tight Git on Jan 5, 2010 1:03:35 GMT
all sounds and looks really good, the subframe finish has come out really good. How did you find the MS suspension kit? im thinking of getting it aswell. I saw Swiftys mini today, i was his neck of the woods and i could of sworn it was that mini!! good to see the attention to detail you are taking, it all counts!
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Post by Miniböttcher on Jan 5, 2010 23:17:06 GMT
the MS suspension kit was recomended by dave, who has the same on his, after going out for a drive and seeing how well it handles i was sold. and for the money its very good i bought the geomatry kit, www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=38461&title=SUSPENSION%20PACK%20OF%20GEOMET... ( with the ofset bushes) the the mini spares 40 years spax shocks, but the lowered ones www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=32606&title=DAMPER%20SPAX%20ADJUSTABLE%20ST... gen rip speed hi-los, www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=42500&title=HILO%20FULL%20FRONT%20AND%20REAR%20... and it worked out cheaper than there complete kits they do, plus you get what you want also get genuine dunlop rubbers, aftermarket ones are 2 hard and dont compress, a fully adjustable suspension set up for good money, at the same time i renewed or reconed all the other bits, so its all new or like new
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Post by monkeyjim on Jan 6, 2010 17:03:33 GMT
Dean has said it all . All I can add is the aftermarket rubbers springs are poor and some said to be dangerous . You get what you pay for . The genuine ones with Dunlop or Moulton stamped in them I think are best bought from Minispares centre although they do not last very long before they deteriorate I have read recently I have bought Minispares own uprated road version of the rubber springs (donuts) made by a company involved in Formula 1 apparantly to fit in my Hreg nini project . I have genuine standard ones in my Mk1 , done about 6000miles in the 5 years its been on road. Rebuilding the entire suspension system with new shocks springs and bushes transforms a Mini . I guarantee it ;D Try it Its one of the most neglected areas of a Mini . People 'bling em up' put engine wheels and drain pipe exhausts that produce less power than the standard one but do not bother about replacing the worn out split rubber bushes , original shocks and sagging springs . The newest Mini is now 10 years old so imagine what the original suspension looks like on a late 80's model . Clapped out . I could not believe how amazing the suspension felt when I drove the Mk1 for the first time . Best thing to do is read about suspension or anything else in the Calvers Corner section of wwwminispares.com for info that backs up what Dean and I have said . It even includes part numbers for componants talked about . Dave
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Post by Tight Git on Jan 6, 2010 19:35:05 GMT
I replaced all the suspension parts in the moke, and she is a dream to drive, i remember long ago when the City was on the road it wass bumpy as hell. I've herd about the sub standard cones, i believe minisport sell them as "Rear" cones for a cheaper price than the genuin Dunlop\Moulton cones. Don't forget that the MK1 is sold mounted subframe on 10" wheels the best setup you can have for handling, none of this road noise reducing rubber mount rubbish!!
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