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Post by lydia42 on Jun 20, 2005 21:49:19 GMT
took the 'ol gel for a spin this weekend, (thanks to Bill for the wiper motor and the tune-up) but have a prob.... think a new clutch is in order... she's alright when i'm tootling along but give it some right foot and the poor thing slips like billy-o!!! any ideas where to purchase a new/reconditioned 1300 metro clutch... also how hard is it to replace? are we talking engine out and much swearing  or a minor operation with local anaesthetic??? |
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Post by Simon1275mpi on Jun 21, 2005 19:22:51 GMT
What type of clutch have you got? Verto metro (mounted on a plate onto the bell housing) or the old mini type (Slave cylinder is mounted onto the top of the bell housing, just under the stabilizer).
How many miles has this engine/clutch done?
The old mini type (non-verto) does have a clutch return stop screw which can be adjusted in to take up the wear.
Verto (Metro & mid 80's on Mini's) are self adjusting, so if slipping are on the way out. Could add a scare stories of worst case scenario's, but you just don't want to know.
A clutch change can be done with the engine in the car. You'll need a clutch puller, torque bar (the bigger the better) and a good tool box.
Si
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Post by lydia42 on Jun 22, 2005 19:36:26 GMT
we don't know what the mileage on the lump is. its a metro 1275 leaded jobbie, has a verto clutch... looking at the engine bay we're not overly blessed with working room..... have thrown a metro engine into a mini once before but never delved into the dark art of "clutch repair!!!" this of course is dependent on the ol' gel passing the MOT...  |
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Post by Simon1275mpi on Jun 22, 2005 22:25:11 GMT
Verto - might as well change it, they are not cheap, shop around.
It can be done from in the car, you do need a good quality clutch puller, a long 1/2" drive bar and socket to get off the fly wheel nut. That would help you with any real hurdles.
The rest is nuts and bolts, grazed knuckles & cursing monkey jobs.
Si
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Post by Simon1275mpi on Jun 22, 2005 22:27:40 GMT
Oh!! and before you start ripping out the clutch - get a second opinion, could be something simple. The MOT could overlook the clutch but it really worth dealing with. Just shout if you need a hand.
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Post by paul1275s on Jun 23, 2005 19:44:03 GMT
got a flywheel puller and socket if you need to borrow some, have a look in the timing inspection hole thing at the top front of the clutch bell housing, if there's wet oil in there, your crankshaft oil seal will need replacing too!! good luck....
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Post by monkeyjim on Jun 25, 2005 19:58:48 GMT
Mini Nutter, re: mot overlooking the clutch.
Must just point out that the Clutch does not come into the MOT. Unless the car does not drive , if so the car is not fit to be presented for a test in the first place and the AE (authorised examiner) can refuse to test it. as it is a reason for refusal.
Cheers, Dave...... AE (mot tester)
PS: REMEMBER WHEN MESSING ABOUT WITH THE CLUTCH DO NOT MIX ANY CLUTCH COMPONENTS FROM THE PRE VERTO SET UP WITH THE VERTO SET UP. .THE CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER,HOSE,ROD,RELEASE ARM,CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL ARE ALL DIFFERANT. THE STARTERS ARE NOT INTERCHANGEABLE THE PRE VERTO CLUTCH/FLYWHEEL NEEDS THE EARLY STARTER ETC ETC.
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Post by lydia42 on Jun 26, 2005 12:42:22 GMT
Cheers for the info guys, the car is still driveable, (as long as you don't thrash it) so in the event of her ever passing the MOT Retest (failed on - hole in n/s sub-frame - being welded on thurs, hi CO in the emmisions test - will leaning the mixture cure this? , poor/no effort on rear brakes - stripping and bleeding this week, and last but not least - an unsecured rear seat (the upright part...even though you can't use the rear seats due to the harnesses and bucket seats!!!! - solved by removing seat for MOT ;D) may take you up on your offer of help (will definately have to borrow the puller). Will hopefully be at the next pub meet....  |
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or a minor operation with local anaesthetic??? 
