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Post by AntMan on Dec 21, 2011 19:44:36 GMT
Not a problem just some advice please! Got myself some DSN solid alloy mounts for front subframe (front & back) - just wondering which is the best way as in jacking/securing subframe when changing these mounts, baring in mind engine still insitu....? Ant  |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Dec 22, 2011 6:21:41 GMT
I fitted solid mounts to my cooper years back and it tore the toe board mounting poing so I would recommend beefing up the floor in that area for solid mounts.
N.
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Post by Stephen on Dec 22, 2011 12:18:36 GMT
Prob best to undo the tower bolts, engine steady and subframe mounts and lower the whole subframe down just enough to swap them over. Supporting the shell evenly on the front edge of the heelboard / floor so as not to damage the floorpan.
I made some alloy plates for the front of the floor to spread the load on the mounting points. Never had any problems before with solid mounts though.
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Post by Miniböttcher on Dec 22, 2011 13:22:00 GMT
Maybe a stupid question but why have you chooses to go solid mounts. Any movement of any thing like your engine etc with be taken up if you used poly Or rubber mounts. But it will be your shell/ body with will take it when running would mounts.
Just make sure like Neil said and stephen has done is to plate up were it bolt through the floor. To spread the load.
And make sure your engine does not move at all. I had an engine. Which rocked everytime I hit the go pedal. And in time a ripped the floor around the rear front subframe mounts. And that was with rubber mounts.
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Post by Stephen on Dec 22, 2011 15:21:39 GMT
Rubber mounts were only introduced from Mk4 to make them more comfortable and quiet. Will stiffen the handling up nicely on a weekend car when you don't care about comfort or noise.
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Post by paul1275s on Dec 22, 2011 23:35:38 GMT
I did this to the Autotester  although I suspect you won't be fitting solid toeboard mounts. I can attest to the loss of refinement from changing over to solid mounts, it sucked on a road car, I changed back to standard! |
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Post by Stephen on Dec 23, 2011 15:12:30 GMT
I can attest to the loss of refinement from changing over to solid mounts, it sucked on a road car, I changed back to standard! That's cos you're a big girl  |
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Post by paul1275s on Dec 23, 2011 17:31:28 GMT
That's cos you're a big girl [/quote] ;D |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Dec 23, 2011 17:36:46 GMT
I have a similar setup to Paul but mine is on the inside. I just seam welded and the crack and plated the inside. reason for doing it inside was firstly because it is easier to weld but also so as not to mess with the subframe alignment.
N
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Post by sonikk on Dec 23, 2011 19:34:28 GMT
Mmm food for thought here then, we have got solid mounts front and back on my boys Project with poly bush tower mounts. Time to make some spreader plates for the toe board then.
With regards to fitting them do them one set at a time and support the subframe and the body and you should be ok.
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Post by Stephen on Dec 24, 2011 3:52:07 GMT
I think they will be fine if the shell is in good nick. I only reinforced mine because I went to the ultimate of solid mounting by removing the tower spacers altogether and mating the subframe directly to the shell. Complete ball ache but lowers the suspension 5mm without changing the geometry.
Now the KAD internal linkage doesn't fit properly either, having to make a custom bracket to suit.
Don't modify your Mini....
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Post by Miniböttcher on Dec 24, 2011 10:41:40 GMT
Get you shell solid be for even thinking of fitting those mounts.
To be honest. I would just stick to standard or poly mounts. Cheaper to change, than paying for some one to weld up you car.
The early cars were solid, and I have even beefed up the front panel on the mk1. The floors are already had extra plate from the factory from what I car see, but early rear , front subframe mounting points are in a slightly different to later cars with mounts.
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 24, 2011 17:21:33 GMT
I Dont have those worries MK1 shell..... and I forgot to put in the spacers on the top of the towers in when I rebuilt it ,so automatically lowered it 5mm for free.   Would just like to point out that solid mounting the frame with all its pros and cons is pointless if the front suspension is still using original bushing and componants , stupid wheels and tyres such as Falkens . |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Jan 22, 2012 15:12:37 GMT
Heres a photo of a cracked floor mount from project widget. I thought this side was ok until I removed all the underseal.  N. |
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