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Post by mk1morris on Sept 17, 2009 18:34:20 GMT
i have brought a oil seal kit for my rod change but cant work out what goes in first, the metal coller then the rubber or the other way round. i have removed the old seal to try and see but there dont seem to be a metal coller in there ???if im mistaken and put the new one in will this have any negative affect  im guessing the metal coller goes first then the seal am i right mr haynes just said remove the seal im confused. |
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Post by Simon1275mpi on Sept 17, 2009 20:41:38 GMT
Metal colar first, then the seal, rubber spring gaitor.
Sometimes you'll find someone has done it already!
Remember to drain the oil first! :-)
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Post by monkeyjim on Sept 17, 2009 21:33:32 GMT
This kit is a upgrade over the standard seal . Should consist of Collar , thin ring seal to put round collar , normal gearchange oil seal and rubber gaitor . The collar was never fitted during production which is why Haynes manuals do not have it in them . The collar is in the kit to keep the gearchange rod centrally located and stop it rattling about . With the seal alone the rod will move about and subsequently the oil will leak past the worn seal . Fit as Simon has instructed . My gear change is on a quick release , isnt it guys  |
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Post by Miniböttcher on Sept 17, 2009 21:47:21 GMT
will help alot and stop oil leaking as its a prone point.
very quick release , i got the knack of it, as we took it off and on at least a hand full of times, are you going to let the secert out how it works, as it a very handy and great mod to do
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Post by monkeyjim on Sept 17, 2009 22:05:44 GMT
No worries mate . What you have to do is get your blue mark 1 . Ground it heavily on a curb in a Cornish camp site 300 miles from home , preferably at the chav end of the site so when its stuck in 3rd gear at the bottom of the hill you cant drive it to your mates at the top off the hill in the posh bit where the tents are . Then when you do eventually make it to the posh bit as if by magic ;D ;D :Dall your mates get under it and fix the bugger . Is that what you meant Dean .  (True story from Riv Run 09) Or did you mean Substituting one of the gearchange rod roll pins with one that is undersized and then push a split pin through it and lock the ends over . Then instead of bolting the upper gearchange steady rod to the gear box you cut one of the bolt holes into a slot , push a stud partially through the rods mounting area in the gear box, drop the steady rod over the stud , push the stud further through the box and through the remaing hole in the steady rod and then put a lock nut on either end to attach it like I have been doing for the past 5 years without a problem on the mark 1 ;D |
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Post by mk1morris on Sept 17, 2009 22:17:18 GMT
lol thanks dave for the laugh. and thanks to the replies sorted it now. why do the most simple things cause all the hastle or is it just me being thick (rhetorical question) |
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Post by monkeyjim on Sept 17, 2009 22:27:29 GMT
Things are only as difficult as you let them .
Ok some jobs on a Mini you cannot get round and they are nasty and unavoidable .
I got fed up struggling in the engine bay with no access to the clutch , brake unions , speedo drive , lower rad fittings and hoses etc so i removed half of the inner wings .
The gearchange is a sod to disconnect from the gearbox , even worse with a bigger LCB type exhaust manifold so I have changed the way all of that is retained so its now quick and easy , worked fine for 5 years and it is in fact possible to remove the entire gear change from underneath the car in 5 minutes , less with a helper .
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(True story from Riv Run 09)