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Post by Tight Git on Aug 19, 2008 15:38:25 GMT
Hiya,
I was doing my water pump, and the eejits that had it before have managed to over torque every nut and bolt they could get there socket onto!
anyway as i was unding one of the bolts it has sheared, the one on the bottom at the back. i have tried to get it out, but cant get enough room to drill it out.
im wondering, could i risk three bolts??
Alastiar
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Post by paul1275s on Aug 19, 2008 16:25:15 GMT
I don't think you will get away with that, It will leak like a pig and put too much stress on the other bolts. Don't forget there is quite a large shear (side) load on the water pump due to the tension from the fan belt and the fact that the Alternator hangs off of it. Get the duff bolt out somehow, has it sheared flush? Have you removed the radiator for access?
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Post by Tight Git on Aug 19, 2008 17:00:55 GMT
Yer i didnt think i would get away with it!
Yer sheared flush!! grr
and the Rads out, but still not enough room to get a drill on it!!
Awwwww...not an engine out job! what a mission!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2008 17:13:11 GMT
Ask around if anyone's got a drill with a rightangle chuck you could borrow.
They only need about 1/4 the space of an ordinary drill. ( don't forget to centre punch the bolt first ).
john
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2008 17:20:48 GMT
can you weld a new head on? then undo it?
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Post by Tight Git on Aug 19, 2008 17:21:20 GMT
hmm, yer,
in my experience there not that accurate, and its hard to get a good amount of pressure behind them...might have to buy one, havnt got one...but i love me tools!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2008 17:29:21 GMT
Sorry mate, I meant a right angle drill not just a chuck on an ordinary drill.
You can get quite a purchase on them and if the bit is sharp should be no problem.
john
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Post by Tight Git on Aug 19, 2008 17:32:52 GMT
yer worth a try...or is it an excuse to rebuild the engine....!!
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Post by paul1275s on Aug 19, 2008 18:11:49 GMT
I've got a 90 degree air drill you could borrow, can put a nice sharp cobalt drill bit in it for you too... Problem being I'm away from thursday for a week and a bit, unless you could collect it from my gaff tomorrow evening I can't get it to you for a while..
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Post by MiniHaven on Aug 29, 2008 9:46:40 GMT
i would reccomend you get a large wide zink coated washer or a alluminium washer and place it over the sheared bolt against the block make sure there is enough space to get a 0.08 mm mig wire down the side of it offer up a old bolt and weld it to the stub , this will allow a lot of heat into the snapped stud and attatch the old bolt to it in order for you to remove it easily , the washer prevents you from welding to the engine block , however if you do weld the block fill the area , flatten drill and re tap (welded area and old stud will be softer than the cast block so should be easy to drill and tap with the right equipment in situ) this is the old fashioned way , alternatively there is something on the market now which when you have drilled a hole in the old bolt you can drive this devise into it with a hammer and remove the old stub simply with a spanner .
hope this helps mate
regards shawn
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Post by monkeyjim on Aug 31, 2008 9:33:22 GMT
Shawn is talking about a 'Easy out ' set .
I have a Snap On set and it does work .
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Post by MiniHaven on Sept 5, 2008 10:33:51 GMT
cheers dave it was on the tip of my toungue , byt the way have just baught one having been asked by two peeps to remove knackered studs ,have been using old torx screwdriver bits they work well too lol
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