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Post by AntMan on Feb 20, 2012 14:56:46 GMT
Hi guys, not so much a problem just after some advice and what other people have done in the past. The mini this summer is getting body work treatment with full respray etc... will be fitting a flip front as well. Just wondering whats the best way as regards the wiring for headlights and indicators...? Trying to think of some sort of setup where by can easily disconnect the headlight and indicators allowing me to remove front end. Also this maybe a stupid 1 but am I right in thinking that when fitting flip front you do away with the front subframe mounts (1's that normally fit between subframe & front panel)? Ant  |
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Post by Miniböttcher on Feb 20, 2012 16:49:21 GMT
flip fronts are down to personal choice,
are you using a metal or fibreglass front end
a metal one will give you a better fit but it will not be as good as welding the panels on.
yes, you do away with the front mounts but put braces back towards the car onto the inner wing
some people use towing connector thats what neil has done
or the flexing bit between body and doors on modern cars they are a plug that twist together and seal.
but any thing with a plug and enough pins
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Post by MiniGT5 on Feb 20, 2012 17:47:37 GMT
Towing connector is the best option as it is spec'ed for the correct amp cables / pins
Don't forget it you mount the front of the frame to the inner wings with solid mounts you will need to solid mount the rest of the frame otherwise something will give.
N.
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Post by MiniGT5 on Feb 20, 2012 17:51:13 GMT
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Post by MiniGT5 on Feb 20, 2012 17:53:12 GMT
Oh I forgot to say mine was just pinned to the front of the frame on M6 bolts to make it removable
Also note how to fit the indicators in the wings with P clips
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Post by MiniGT5 on Feb 20, 2012 17:57:05 GMT
And a couple more just for luck   N. |
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Post by monkeyjim on Feb 20, 2012 19:55:37 GMT
I agree it would be best with a socket type connection .
Have a look at one of the VAG group of cars (skoda , vw, audi, seat)and they have a socket type connector between the door and hinge post for the door wiring . They are slimmer than trailer connectors and are in fact screw together but as you screw together the 2 sections it automatically pulls the 2 parts together . Sure my mk3 golf had this sort of connector , loads of vw range of cars in scrappies.
Have you thought about whether you want a one piece front or a 2 piece with a opening bonnet or how fast/easy you may want to make the front removable and whether you want hidden fixings between wing and the 'A' panels or more obvious ones.
I have always thought that if I were to do a flip front I would weld a right angled plate on the inside of 'A' panel and a matching one on the inside wing. Both plates welded on the panels in the area the 2 corresponding panels butt together as if there were normal weld on panels . Both right angled plates would have a couple of holes drilled in them and I would bolt the flip front onto the the 'A'panel and then fit the vertical seam cover strip over the seam. Nice and secure plus externally there are no fixings like Neil has on his wing pic .
Could weld similar plate to wing and inner wing near top subframe mount and bolt flip front to body in that area too.
Buy a pair of quick release bonnet hinges from Tim at Minimail like I have on my mk1 and you could still have a bonnet that opens and uses the bonnet prop but can be removed in a instant.
Look up jb fabrication on face book , Jon Betts is a contributor in Minimag with the orange grass trackers. He makes brace bars that mount from the top shock absorber mounts.
Btw , with you having not much luck regarding Mini's and accidents maybe a secure steel flip front could be better bet than a glass one .
I have new bonnets for sale if you want a fibreglass one .
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Post by paul1275s on Feb 20, 2012 20:52:50 GMT
As Neil said you would need to check that the smaller type of plug could handle the power for your lights. Each headlight draws nearly 5 amps.
The steel 'removable' front fitted to the autotester uses a fixing system like Dave suggests, I would recommend a 'removable' front as opposed to a 'flip' front, and would also recommend steel panels over composite (apart from the bonnet) Make sure you have a separate opening bonnet as you will soon tire of taking a one-piece front off every time you need to do ANYTHING under the bonnet!! Also bear in mind the underbonnet area will get covered in road grime and general crap if you chop the inner wings back.
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Post by Stephen on Feb 24, 2012 7:49:23 GMT
Nooooo, don't do it! Perfect for a race car, shite on a road car. The easiest way to devalue your Mini in a weekend.
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Post by AntMan on Feb 24, 2012 18:28:29 GMT
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Post by monkeyjim on Feb 25, 2012 13:29:00 GMT
Stephen your comment has been noted.... lol  ! Ant But ignored . You must have one un-reliable Mini if you want to keep getting the front off to work on it ;D |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Feb 25, 2012 17:08:18 GMT
either that or a very rusty front to start with which is why I changed mine  You can hide the plug in the inner wing if you like and then people wont even see it. N. |
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Post by AntMan on Feb 25, 2012 19:40:53 GMT
Stephen your comment has been noted.... lol ! Ant But ignored . You must have one un-reliable Mini if you want to keep getting the front off to work on it ;D Yup completely 100% ignored Dave....  lol Ant |
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Post by Miniböttcher on Feb 27, 2012 18:31:21 GMT
you will live and learn,
one day, something will click, and you will understand that people gave you good advice.
but you 100% ignored it.
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Post by AntMan on Feb 27, 2012 20:01:50 GMT
No I did take it on board, looking into doing a steel flip front or maybe completely through it out the window seeing as I already have a spare front panel and a right hand wing - just weight up the options. I'm always greatful for advice and happy to return it if I can. Was having a giggle.... I know majority of you guys speak wise words - I appreciate them. Ant |
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lol