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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 21, 2011 20:15:13 GMT
hi all, after my trip to nurburgring my engine has developed a problem which seems to be very low compression across 3 cylinders and one extremely low i believe its either head gasket or most probable piston rings as it was smoking heavy and chucking lots of oil out through my oil catch tank so iv taken it upon myself to build a proper engine as i dont think my jonspeed block is up to it. but anyway iv started to strip my old 1275 a+ mg metro block for a full rebuild and came across a strange patch of white paint internaly near the centre bearing, im just curious why really is there any reason for this? is it a factory identification mark? almost looks like someones tryed to cover up a repair lol  (i plan to rebuild this block with MED x drilled-wedged-nitro crank, MED lighten and polished con rods, omega forged 18cc dished pistons (hopefully get rid of the stupid decompression plate), MED lightened verto flywheel and a special supercharged piper camshaft. will be changing all the bearings and fitting centre main strap.) also whats the best way to remove old core plugs from the block? matt |
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Post by Miniböttcher on Sept 22, 2011 15:25:44 GMT
clean it off and check to see if anything is under neath.
its good practice to paint the inside of your engine, i have never done it but it is done.
that engine from jon speed did not last long,
why dont you put a 4 bolt centre main strap bit more machining on the block you could also dry deck it so you never have head gasket go. and water getting in your bores.
the price you pay for power.
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Post by paul1275s on Sept 22, 2011 18:14:18 GMT
Thats what you get if you get an engine from jonspeed...
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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 22, 2011 18:36:09 GMT
i must admit it did get some stick that engine lol
4 bolt main is a good idea had a look at that and as i need to get the bores re bored and hoaned its makes sense cos i think you need to line bore after fitment of one of these main caps? i will be getting sussex engines to do the boring.
dunno if funds could stretch as far as dry decking. but its a good idea.
any tips on core plug removal dont wana do any damage?
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Post by Miniböttcher on Sept 22, 2011 19:01:06 GMT
Centre punch in the middle to colape it, or use a screw driver, they should just twist sideways then you can grab it with a pair of pliers.
Before putting the new ones in a wire wheel on a drill to give the hole a good clean
1 other thing is to get you oil galley plugs drilled out and tapped and put m14 grub screws in. I have done it on my last 2 engine. Sussex engines does it to all his race engines. I do it my self, drill them out to 12.7mm on my drill press the I bought a m14 tap. And managed to get the grub screws from Sussex engines. Not something he sales as he uses them. You can also get some from Vauxhall. Which is where Sussex engines get them from.
From my memory there some where around the clutch area when they had it up on the screens. But they were not cheap.
Also there is a mod were you open out the hole where the water pump goes in was in mini world some time last years or maybe 18 mouths ago. Stephen may remember. Just helps water flow.
What are those oil jet thingy things, the turbo guys use inside the engine by each bore.
Don't think Sussex engines can line bore if you have a 4 bolt centre main strap fitted, but there is a engine shop in heath field call Julian Godfrey, they have a good machine shop and they have done all my engine balancing which is must for you engine. The better balanced it is the smoother it will be. So they may do line boring.
Just all the little mods that will help
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Post by Stephen on Sept 22, 2011 19:24:51 GMT
I doubt you'll need to dry deck the block with this spec of engine. Maybe on a full race 7-porter.
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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 27, 2011 23:12:08 GMT
been doing some maths and working out finance etc seems to work out cheaper to buy a MED type R build kit with a few bits in the kit upgraded like forged pistons and billet lightened flywheel than to do what i initially planned to do.
the med kit comes with all the bits i need to assemble and is already bored and honed. just hope to get a good pay slip this month. lol
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Post by Miniböttcher on Sept 28, 2011 10:48:49 GMT
Think I need to change jobs and start working with the dead.
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Post by Stephen on Sept 28, 2011 14:19:33 GMT
Go for the H-beam conrods and steel crank while you're at it haha
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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 28, 2011 16:18:52 GMT
lol did consider that for about 20 seconds and then saw the price ouch but no need for that lot as the supercharge cam runs out of steam about 6500-7000 according to piper they also recommended 1.3 rockers rather than 1.5. and standard mg metro crank and rods are good for 7000 rpm so i think the med type R kit should be more than capable.... i hope  dunno if im able to afford it this month so maybe end of next month lol |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Sept 28, 2011 16:45:58 GMT
Why not move away from the A Series all together  For the money you are looking to spend you could stick a promotive R1 engine in there  N. |
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Post by Stephen on Sept 28, 2011 18:43:30 GMT
The Mini will be worth a lot more with an A series, this will probably have more torque than an R1 anyway. They sound faster than they are IMO
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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 28, 2011 19:39:17 GMT
its funny you should say that neil lol i am planing a project next year with my christmas bonus money (if i get it). that will be a bike engine conversion fwd think all out track car maybe a clubby mini however i may not go r1 as been doin some research and im thinking kawasaki zx12r which is 1200cc 16v 161 hp at wheel 91.2 LbFt torque where as r1 has 152hp at wheel 78 LbFt torque. r1's and hayabusa are quite pricey as they are popular in the kit car market and iv always had a soft spot for kawasaki hense the colour of my mini lol. im going to keep this one A series for now tho, but the thought had crossed my mind lol
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Post by biggelmo on Sept 28, 2011 20:24:02 GMT
A mate of mine has a Kawasaki ZX9R powered kit car,he chose it for the same reasons....nearly the same power as a R1 but lots cheaper.
Also on the torque thing, the same chum and another one with a bike powered kit car have both done "Run what you Brung" drag racing in there kit cars and both say the bike engines cars are quicker of the line but struggle towards the end of the run where even a 1.4 K series engines kit car will catch up because of higher torque.
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Post by Matt~Attude on Sept 28, 2011 20:46:35 GMT
that is the only disappointing thing about bike engines, lack of torque. suppose you could turbo it to try make up for lack of torque lol but thats gonna be mega bucks
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dunno if im able to afford it this month so maybe end of next month lol
