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Post by minimalal on Aug 30, 2010 10:04:40 GMT
was driving fine yesterday and suddenly at high revs was very lumpy so pulled over and it cut out and wouldnt start got towed home and had a fiddle with the carb and got him going but just sounds like a tractor and lacks power as if theres not enough fuel getting through :S
going to get it sorted this week anyway but just wondering what may have caused such a sudden fault
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Post by Stephen on Aug 30, 2010 10:14:59 GMT
Check the basics first
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Post by monkeyjim on Aug 30, 2010 10:36:56 GMT
Several options with this one . I would recommend As Stephen says , start with the basics OR Dont listen and change absolutely everthing for the fun of it before checking the basics. This is a popular option often found on the forum . Dean and I love reading about the second option.
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Post by MiniGT5 on Aug 30, 2010 15:57:24 GMT
Not everyone knows how to check the basics first... I certainly dont know how to check everthing is there a guide to checking the basics Anyone fancy writing one N.
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Post by monkeyjim on Aug 30, 2010 17:06:39 GMT
Your joking Neil . Surely you know how to check basic stuff . How can you give so much technical advice ? Everytime a post like Alex appears one of us says check the basics and usually runs threw what to look for . I used to , these days Dean writes the essay of things to start looking at .
When you have posts about cars with oversized exhausts for there engine size and a set up that is never going to work properly with a owner who will not listen to that well proven point but still posts up problems with running after the incompatibilty has been pointed out, you tend to switch off . "Banging ones head against a brick wall" is the correct phrase I believe .
I am not alone here . Josie did try to offer "Basic Training" but there were not any takers after one session .
Anyway, this is going away from the fault Alex has . Anymore symptoms or progress on the fault ?
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Post by MiniGT5 on Aug 30, 2010 17:30:52 GMT
Well I do know how to check some basic things like spark and fuel but I do struggle on things like timing and mixtures...
I must admit it would be handy if there was a simple guide. not somthing as complex as the Haynes manual but like a flow chart.
Oh and I know what you mean though about people asking for advice and then not following it... really bugs me too!
N.
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Post by monkeyjim on Aug 30, 2010 18:55:19 GMT
Your spot on . You do know basics . Had me worried for a moment You need spark and fuel . Check spark plugs , points , condensor , wiring contacts , fuses , there is so much . The older Haynes manuals are really good things to read . When I say older ones I mean one published in the 80's or 90's Older ones have more detail in them as the late ones miss out a lot , including gearbox's . Found this out looking in the Haynes that covers Josies SPi . Perhaps if there is interest some of us could get together and put a basic guide together . If not overwhelming interest I wont bother . A Mot guide is on its way . I have written one out but was not happy . Luckily I have found a easy read VOSA guide from a MOT publication that will be on here as a locked read only thread .
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Post by Miniböttcher on Aug 30, 2010 19:05:31 GMT
right, ok
in the last year i have helped with the owners to set up at least 5 club cars, and i bet many will back me to say that there was a great improvement. but it is only a static tune not a rolling road
if you car all of a sudden went lumpy at high revs and would start, i would not think fuel, there is not a chance that your fuel mixture screw will turn its self while driving. you may of made it worse by doing the fuel first
plus, FUEL IS THE LAST THING SET WHEN YOU SET UP A CAR!!!
my first few things i would check will be HT leads spark plugs, ( gapped to 0.80mm) all in good condition and working coil connections are all in the right place, and good connectors coil works, find a spare which works to try on yours distributor vacuum pipe is in place and and broken distribtor cap is good condition and the contacts inside are good. rotor arm( give it a clean with some sand paper) engine has a good earth
these are a few things that are quick and easy to do and the haynes manual also explains as well
but to have to well set up car you need a complete package. and have everything ignitions side working properly and your timing set up right, the right parts for your engine, nott to big exhaust, correct carb, the list can go on, like i say a complete package and everything working togeather and not agaist each other,
to do this with, once you have checked the above
rockers gaps set to 0.30mm ht leads are good, if not replace spark plugs ( like said above) if not replace distributor is good not too much movement in the shaft. points gap. condencer if you have electronic ignition forget the 2 above
distribtor cap is in good condtion rotor arm make sure your timing is set right, should be about 8 degrees BTDC. for a 998 at 1500rpm with vacuum pipe removed and pipe blocked
then once you have that all sorted you need exhaust gas analyser to set the fuel mixture, you need your co2 set between 2.5-3.5 and between 750-800rpm
its very hard to to get it right with out one
hope that covers the basics and gives you an idea what is involved to get your car right.
i bet me and matt will be happy to show people one club meet what to do if needed, matt is a bit of a natural at it
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Post by MiniHaven on Aug 30, 2010 19:38:13 GMT
its an old fav but may be worth checkeing your compression could be head gasket just to throw the cat amongst the pigeons ? this is a very popular fault and has all those symtoms .incidentally over revving or high reving will cause an old head gasket to let go !!!!
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Post by minimalal on Aug 31, 2010 17:49:07 GMT
woah big response cheers guys
distributor cap very worn so replaced along with rotor arm, all spark fine and now engine actually sounds fine its the exhaust which is my concern, it just continuously blows , jacked it up and theres a considerable bend in it, but no holes that i could find, could this make a difference?
i am wanting to replace it anyway (club cheer) anyone have one spare?
cheers again
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Post by Stephen on Aug 31, 2010 18:05:29 GMT
Good news, said it would be something simple! I had no end of problems when I used to run points, I don't think the quality of the ignition bits are what they used to be.
Maybe consider upgrading to electronic ignition if you have any problems with points.
A Cooper Freeflow manifold and Maniflow RC40 would be your best bet for performance, plus a rolling road tune
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Post by minimalal on Aug 31, 2010 19:41:28 GMT
A Cooper Freeflow manifold and Maniflow RC40 would be your best bet for performance, plus a rolling road tune funny thing is i was going to get a stage one kit and get it setup this week! annoying car now have to get this sorted, i shall never know why i wanted to drive and keep driving this car
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Post by monkeyjim on Aug 31, 2010 20:30:04 GMT
Dean . You really need to print off your list of basic settings and save it as a locked thread . By spark and fuel i refer to a non start situation : Make sure it has fuel to carb . Make sure it has spark ie- old plug resting on top of engine and look for spark when cranking . We always recommend a Minispares stage 1 kit . Loads of exhaust choices with that one so you can still get one with a large tailpipe if you want . The exhausts fit really easily . Got a stage 1 with stainless exhaust and a large bore tailpipe on mk1 . Personally I have no trouble with points . Never let me down . Tell a lie : I had a 1977 998 in about 1990 and that wouldnt go up the hill out of Saltdean as the gap started to close up . 1 mishap with points in 22years of driving Minis . Recon that warrants chucking away the points dizzy and the carb and going coil pack and fuel injection dont you .......... Not You look after it , it looks after you . MED recommended points when I built there engine kit and supplied me a modified dizzy to match the engine . Paul Mellors 60's Cooper had just over 100hp on Geralds Rollers and that was on points . Tick Tock Clockwork. ;D
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Post by minimalal on Sept 2, 2010 11:04:58 GMT
its an old fav but may be worth checkeing your compression could be head gasket just to throw the cat amongst the pigeons ? this is a very popular fault and has all those symtoms .incidentally over revving or high reving will cause an old head gasket to let go !!!! well i ruled this out due to having a brand new one only a few months ago, but it does actually have all the sypmtons now ive been out with the car today. looks like going to be off the road for a while, cant afford to repair again, my mum wants to sell up but going to put up a fight. will keep you posted
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Post by katentel on Sept 2, 2010 13:01:20 GMT
keep pluging away alex. a simple compression test will tell you if the head gasket has gone and if it has could cure your problem. sure plenty of members have a tester over you way.i also have one you can use if you wish. im only in eastbourne
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