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Post by mk1morris on Dec 17, 2009 20:32:53 GMT
on my new engine the thermostat housing has two small pipe conecters on the front almost as if its vacume in and out. i should have taken notice when striping it down but cant think what thay are for any ideas  can i remove and use a standerd one |
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 17, 2009 20:51:21 GMT
you got a old Metro engine there ?
Has the waterpump got the bypass hose to the underside of the cylinder head ?
Anyway i reckon its a old metro engine . Most likely it has no rubber hose between top of pump and head .
I would use the Mini thermostat housing , fit a new thermostat and drill 4 to 6 3mm holes in the flat section of the stat . This will let a bit of water through and make up for the loss of the bypass hose .............. believe me it works .
Done several Metro into Mini A series conversions and never had a issue .
You may also need to drill out a hole in the head for the heater tap or if you have a inline heater valve it will be for the take off a heater pipe goes onto . The 2 threaded holes are already in the head ( top of head number 1 plug end) for the studs so just drill out the disc between the thread holes
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Post by mk1morris on Dec 17, 2009 21:04:43 GMT
thanks but it is a rover mini engine with bypass hose, and yes the heater valve is blocked off but on the sandwich bellow the thermostat housing, i have a take off with a heater valve in line like a spi/mpi. it also has two small vacume type take off from thermo housing my plan was to use the inline heater valve if i can but did not know what the vacume things on the housing are. the engine was removed from a very late carb mini it was running a hiff38 if that has any relivence. its defo not a metro lump though. |
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Post by mk1morris on Dec 17, 2009 21:19:47 GMT
here is a pic of the engine you will see what i mean buy the inline heater valve but also bellow where the top hose is two small vaume type things its defo not a metro lump ignore the rocker cover i put that on ;D ;D the spec is Engine type & CC: A+ 1275 cc Transverse mounted Fueling: HIF38 MAC10031, AEM Needle, Red Spring Engine features: 9.4:1 Compression Ratio Servo Assisted Brakes 95 Ron Unleaded petrol Open Loop Catalyst Pre-engaged starter Gearbox features: Std. Ratio Rod Change gearbox with Pot Joints 3.105:1 Final Drive i just dono what the vacume things are on thermo housing  |
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 17, 2009 21:27:37 GMT
well actually the 1275 rover mini engines were derived from the Metro engine as the 1275 Aplus appeared in the metro before the mini but i know what you mean about yours being from a mini ;D .
sounds like a SPi engine with a carb .
you not got a inline heater valve in your car ?
fit a heater take off to the end of head to run a pipe to the heater valve and fit a normal mini stat housing
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Post by Miniböttcher on Dec 17, 2009 22:32:33 GMT
tel has just asked me the same question,
like i said to tel, is what dave is saying,
use and mini water pump( replace it even if its fine)
change the temp housing for a mini one
and drill the head for the heater tap,
tel if your reading this, drill your thermostat to let a bit more water through
martan your were not happy with 70 odd brake out of a standard 1275 with a stage 1, which i think is really good for that engine
why not go non A series engine,
honda vtec,1600cc 16v (150 bhp ish)
K series 1600cc 16v from a rover/mg
swift engine 1300cc 16v
vauxhall 8 valve, good cheap engines with good power
reason being, doing a proper rebuild on a A series will be £1500- £2000
you could do one of the ones above for less than rebuilding the A series, more power, 5 speed hearbox thats stronger than the A series.
dont get me wrong i like the A series engines
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 17, 2009 23:57:48 GMT
Fit normal mini stat housing .
Why you interested in using the inline heater valve ?
With the original engine in your car was the heater tap on the end of the head ?
The inline valve has a rubber pipe going to it , the head end of that pipe fits to a connector that mounts in same place as the old "bolt on head" heater valve.
Anyway arent the bore sizes of heater pipes differant between the "bolt on" heater tap and the inline one.
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Post by mk1morris on Dec 18, 2009 1:12:59 GMT
right confused  on the engine above both heater hoses entererd the heater via the right hand side through the bulk head. the bottom hose being the inlet i asume and the top with the control being the return direct back into thermo housing. where the heater valve/contol is normaly located on the left of the head in this case its not there just smoth casting on my mini i have the inlet to the heater on the right going through the bulk head the same. but the out let on the left via the bulk head but what im asuming is. the out let on the left going throgh the bulk head on my mini now if i was to join this to the outlet on the engine the one with the heater control inline would this work as there is no way of fitting a standerd early valve on the left its just smoth casting |
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Post by MiniGT5 on Dec 18, 2009 8:18:44 GMT
You need to drill & tap the head to take the early type of heater control tap then you can plub it in exactly as your existing setup (except fot the bypass hose - but you can always retro fit that too but its not worth the hastle) N  |
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Post by mk1morris on Dec 18, 2009 11:25:19 GMT
if i fit the retro heater tap i cant use the standerd filter box so why is the bellow not possible as i think thay only changed the pipes position due to lack of space on later models with servo  |
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Post by Miniböttcher on Dec 18, 2009 11:59:47 GMT
first are you doing any head work when you mod the engine,as you were not happy with the power of the last engine if so that head will go in for exchange and your get a new freshly machined head with the heater take off, so its not a problem
also
you can get the heat pipe off the roll so you can run it any way you want as long as it runs the right way in and out the heater
bin the metro or what ever it is temp housing a use a mini one,
easy , think your making it hard that what it is, just keep it simple
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 19, 2009 13:03:11 GMT
ok lets start again
Is this your current set up ?
Standing in front of your car looking at your current engine
you have a heater pipe from the bulkhead on the drivers side to the heater valve located on drivers side top front corner of the cylinder head ?
does your new head have 2 holes and a recessed round blank in the same place ?
The SPi
Josie's Equinox is a SPi . It has a blank and 2 threaded holes for a heater valve on the drivers side front top corner of cylinder head . As does my Sidewalk Spi that Terry now owns.
The Spi engine does not have the temperature sender in the cylinder head , this is located on the front of the head just before the first spark plug hole . The threaded hole for the sender in the head is not present .
The Spi has the same thermostat lay out as the one in your picture . It does not have the 2 plastic pipes from the stat housing .
However
Going by the breakdown of the engine number or chassis number you have listed it must only be one of the 1992 onwards carburettor with cat 1275 models of the mayfair and sprite which did did have the 2 plastic pipes on the stat housing .
We have a sprite auto in regularly at work and I had a 1275 carb cat Mayfair . I must admit I cannot rember whether the pipes come out of the top section of stat housing or the adptor plate under it .
It must also still have a temp sender in the head .
Now what ?
Note: the in-line heater valves arrived in 1989 . Also the heater pipes changed bore size , possibly around the same time .
It does give that info if you were to try and look up the heater hoses on the minispares site but as i write the shop section of the site is down .
I am quite sure you should have the 2 threaded holes and blank resess in the end of head .
Drill out the blank between the threaded holes and fit your old bolt on valve.
Use old mini stat housing with drilled thermostat if you do not have a bypass hose. Use a new stat regardless .
Now if you definately have no threaded holes in the drivers side top end of head for a bolt on heater valve I would look at whether or not the vac pipes come out of the top section of stat housing on your new engine or the lower adaptor plate with the heater pipe outlet in it .
If they are in the top section can you use a standard old mini stat housing on top of the adaptor.
If the pipes are in the lower section can you just blank them off ?
Not easy saying what to do with out seeing the layouts .
If you use the housing that came with your new engine you will indeed need to link up the heater pipes on your car to the ones on the engine .
As I said beware of the differance in pipe bore size .
Measure all relevant pipes before cutting things up .
Hope this is clearer to you . ;D
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Post by mk1morris on Dec 19, 2009 15:59:47 GMT
great all makes sence so i can just join the two hoses as thought thanks ;D
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Post by monkeyjim on Dec 19, 2009 16:18:56 GMT
yes, but do you really need to do it that way ?
Did you read all of the post ?
do you have the holes in the head ?
if so you wont need to
remember hose sizes could be differant etc
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Post by Miniböttcher on Dec 19, 2009 16:50:33 GMT
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
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